Faidley’s Seafood vows to continue its crabcake magic at new location in Lexington Market
At first fearing its space in the new building would be generic and cold, co-owner Nancy Devine is relieved that the 138-year-old family business retains the same funky charm that made it beloved in Baltimore and beyond
Above: Owners Nancy and Bill Devine at the ribbon-cutting ceremony to celebrate Faidley’s Seafood’s new location at Baltimore’s rebuilt Lexington Market. (Marty Katz)
Explaining her initial trepidation about moving Faidley’s Seafood to the new Lexington Market, Nancy Faidley Devine said she was afraid it was going to “look like it was in a shopping center mall.”
“I felt that it would be cold. Wouldn’t have the warmth, wouldn’t have the memories,” said Devine, at the ribbon-cutting for the 138-year-old business in its new location in the $45 million South Market Building on Eutaw Street.
“I was sad.”
But her daughters, she explained, told her “it’s going to be alright, mom” and saved the day.
They brought over the familiar old framed photos and funny signage and even the stand-up tables from their previous location, where all manner of Baltimoreans stood side-by-side, eyeing the signs advertising muskrat and raccoon meat, slurping oysters and washing down crabcakes, softshell crabs and other Chesapeake Bay bounty with a cold beer.
“They fixed this like a phoenix coming out of nothing,” Devine said, wiping away tears. “It’s a beautiful place, and they were able to save all the years of memories that their father and I had been able to have.”
More than 300 signs from its location in the old Lexington Market came over when Faidley’s moved to become the anchor of the new building. (Photo and video below by Marty Katz)
High Hopes for South Market
As the 88-year-old matriarch sees it, following a challenging transition, Faidley’s now has a bright future that will honor its venerable past.
Since her grandfather founded the operation in 1886, it evolved from fresh seafood sales to prepared food items to crabcake stardom after Nancy, in 1987, crafted a no-frills lumpmeat crabcake against which, some would say, all others are measured.
“A lot of businesses go belly up after about two generations,” she told photojournalist Marty Katz at the grand opening on Thursday.
“I’m third generation, so I went one step farther. I’ve been here for 50 years, and now my daughters are continuing it.”
Attached to its opening are high hopes that the seafood seller will help anchor the new marketplace, which has had some mixed reviews.
Faidley’s co-owner Bill Devine poses with well-wishers, including legendary-oyster-shucker-turned general manager Lou Fleming (right) and longtime customer Franklin Wilds. (Marty Katz)
When the $45 million re-do opened in 2022, Faidley’s was not part of it.
The delay was attributed to red tape and various complications involving city agencies, the developer, fellow merchants and contractors.
But finally the seafood market and eatery made the move and soft-opened in March.
Co-owners Nancy and Bill Devine held court at Thursday’s formal ribbon-cutting event, but not too formally – Bill posed for pictures sporting a jolly red crab hat and jumbo cigar.
The family was congratulated by City Council President Nick Mosby and his soon-to-be successor, City Councilman Zeke Cohen, as well as Downtown Partnership President Shelonda Stokes.
Along with the well-wishers, of course, were daughters Damye Devine Hahn and Eve Devine, representing the next generation Nancy is so proud of.
“I think it’s going to be one of the longest-running family businesses in the city of Baltimore,” she declared.
Faidley’s classic crabcake platter with fat fries and coleslaw. (Photo and video below, with more from the ceremony, by Marty Katz)